Review: Kitchen Four Twenty From Christina Wan in Fort Lauderdale | New Times Broward-Palm Beach

Openings and Closings

Christina Wan's Kitchen Four Twenty Is Serving "Highly Addictive" Food in Fort Lauderdale

Kitchen Four Twenty doesn't have any Mary Jane on the menu, but the food is classified as "highly addictive."

"So many caucasians are getting into doing Asian concepts, so why not reverse that trend?" - Kitchen Four Twenty owner Christina Wan.

tweet this
The menu, made up of modern American classics, offers breakfast and lunch items in a casual, diner-like setting. The eatery is located at 420 Federal Highway, but the name is also a play on...

(Well, let's face it, we all know what it's a play on. Let's not pretend we don't. We're all adults here.)

Of course, it's not something you'd expect from Miami restaurateur Christina Wan, owner of Christina Wan's Mandarin House, considered among the best Chinese restaurants in Broward County.

"This is our first time doing something different," says Wan, who also owns Temple Street Eatery next door with her nephew, Alex Kuk. "So many Caucasians are getting into doing Asian, so why not reverse that trend?"

To do so, Wan recruited executive chef Brett Redstone, a chef with more than 15 years experience and former owner of Il Migliori in Aventura.

Redstone says he created the menu to channel the classic American comfort food with a creative, contemporary touch. The breakfast side of things covers everything from omelets and frittatas and fried egg sandwiches or egg Benedict to waffles, pancakes, and French toast.

Lunch offers "Big Plates" like chicken and waffles or bacon-wrapped meatloaf; "Handhelds" with a shrimp po'boy, brisket sandwich on homemade sourdough, and a fried green tomatoes BLT; and "Greens" with kale caesar or a classic wedge salad. Creative sides offer up selections like braised cabbage with goat cheese, sautéed kale, cheesy grits, and a blue cheese cole slaw.

"There may be days where there are Asian- or Italian-influenced dishes, but we're making everything to-order and with unique techniques to give everything an extra-personal touch," says Redstone, including omelets made with a traditional French-style, pan-whipped execution.

If you go, try the lemon ricotta pancakes off the "Griddle Love" section, a three-step batter made with fresh ricotta and egg yolk and cooked on the flat-top for a thin, crispy shell that's one-part pancake, one-part doughy crepe.

Another highlight is "From the Coop," a chorizo hash made with raw ground chorizo cooked-to-order along with potatoes, roasted poblano, and caramelized onions, and topped with poached eggs, a 25-ingredient homemade green chili sauce, and a flavorful tarragon aioli for a play on the traditional hollandaise. 

Both dishes are true to the restaurant name: crave-worthy and addictive.

Kitchen Four Twenty is located at 420 N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale. Call 954-900-3107, or visit Facebook.

Nicole Danna is a food writer covering Broward and Palm Beach counties. To get the latest in food and drink news in South Florida, follow her @SoFloNicole or find her latest food pics on the BPB New Times Food & Drink Instagram.
KEEP NEW TIMES BROWARD-PALM BEACH FREE... Since we started New Times Broward-Palm Beach, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of South Florida, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Nicole Danna is a Palm Beach County-based reporter who began covering the South Florida food scene for New Times in 2011. She also loves drinking beer and writing about the area's growing craft beer community.
Contact: Nicole Danna