Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

Like those at greasy spoons, truck stops, and coffeehouses, the employees at Laspada's (4346 Seagrape Dr., Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, 954-776-7893) have a vocabulary all their own. And customers can't help but pick up the lingo. First-timers might find "a combo roundroll with no hots and extra sweets" (turkey and roast beef on a kaiser roll with extra sweet peppers) a little difficult to interpret at first. And the servers, whose quick hands and wisecracks keep the line moving, are a trifle brusque. The best thing to do is order a sub with the works -- provolone cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles, hot peppers, sweet peppers, mayonnaise, vinegar and oil, and salt and pepper -- then figure out what you do and don't like. On the other hand, if you're picky and have a detailed order, don't worry about these sandwich makers: Excellent short-term memory skills are a job requirement.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick