Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

The garlicky fragrance of home-cured kim chee wafts through the air at Han Yang Oriental Market (8033 W. Oakland Park Blvd., Sunrise, 954-746-0980), inexorably drawing patrons to the refrigerated cases that keep the spicy cabbage cool. And, once attracted, people find it hard to leave without a large jar of the stuff tucked firmly under an arm. But kim chee is by no means the only culinary Pied Piper on the premises. A Korean/Japanese market, Han Yang is stocked with a selection of smoked and dried fish and seafood, including anchovies, sardines, cod, shrimp, and squid legs. An assortment of noodles and dumplings are shelved in freezer cases, while sacks of rice, grains, and dried mung or soy beans line the aisles. Best of all, fresh produce -- gingerroot, bok choy, shiitake mushrooms -- is heaped in the back of the store, and an almost bewildering array of sauces, spices, chili pastes, and condiments takes into account customers' cravings for Vietnamese flavors.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick