I've got this thing about ordering Maine lobster in a steak house: Generally I think it's a rip-off. In the high-end houses, lobsters run $16 to $18 per pound, usually at a two-and-a-half pound minimum. That's one pricey crustacean. Not so at the Porterhouse Bar & Grill (7050 W. Palmetto Park Rd., Boca Raton, 561-391-6601). For the length of the season (usually May through September), the restaurant runs a special: a pound-and-a-quarter lobster for $7.95, twin lobsters for $14.95. You couldn't do much better on the docks of Maine, especially because the Porterhouse throws in bread, a salad, and a starch. At these prices I can see myself finally turning lobster-eating -- formerly a luxury -- into a serious, albeit rich, habit.

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