Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

Larry Harris is the Colonel Sanders of South Florida -- an hombre who knows his pollo. You may want to get to know his pollo, too. There are almost a dozen fast-food joints in Broward and Palm Beach counties where you can sample Harris' pollo (that's "chicken," for all you gringos). Pollo Tropical (seven locations in Broward, three in Palm Beach, including: 1819 S. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale and 2611 Okeechobee Blvd., West Palm Beach) -- Harris' decade-old, Miami-based chain of Cuban-inspired, fast-food restaurants -- serves juicy, marinated grilled chicken that will give the Colonel a run for his money. The restaurants also serve a mean roast-pork platter accompanied by white rice, black beans, and sweet-and-sticky plantains. Everything at Pollo Tropical -- chicken, pork, a dozen side dishes, even Cuban desserts like flan -- is served lightning fast at fast-food prices.

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Jay Cheshes