Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

Chef Tony Sindaco called me a couple of months ago to ask me what "peripatetic" means, which is how I'd described him in a review of the now-defunct Cafe Erte in Hollywood, where Sindaco cooked for a while. He thought I was insulting him. "It means you move around a lot," I said. "Oh," he said. "Then I guess it's true." It's still true, but not for much longer. Sindaco, who has worked in three restaurants in Miami-Dade and an equal number in the Broward-Palm Beach region in the last few years, has left his most recent post at the Floribbean Bistro. (His sous chef Frank Copestick is now in charge.) Apparently he's figured out how to still those itinerant feet: He's become a first-time owner. His seafood restaurant Sunfish Grill (2771 E. Atlantic Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-788-2434) opens this week. Sunfish will offer innovative seafood dishes based on the day's catch. Now that Sindaco's invested, and given his talent with fish and seafood, it's likely that he's finally found his niche.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick