Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

I remember butchers. Where steaks and chops glistened behind glass. Where freshly ground chuck was weighed and wrapped in white paper, not some cellophane-strangled package dripping blood. And where a friendly, familiar face complied with special requests, saving bones for stock, slicing meat to specifications, stuffing a chicken. If you remember butchers, too, you may want to visit The Meating Place (2811 E. Commercial Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-772-6411). The four-month-old store, owned by Greggory Hunsberger, who ran St. Greggory's La Fondue in Sunrise for eleven years, not only allows you to reminisce over prime Midwestern beef; it provides '90s gourmet opportunities. "The days of a butcher breaking down cattle are over," Hunsberger insists. Consequently, he stocks prepared foods like osso bucco and chicken Wellington, along with gourmet cheeses, canned products, fresh pasta, and wines. He even has a small produce rack, making one-stop shopping complete. And, unless you're a vegan, completely rewarding.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick