Gone South

Where, oh where, has my Little Italian Tavern gone? Devoted patrons may have noticed that the homey joint vacated its well-known but rather scrubby location in front of a trailer park in Hallandale Beach a bunch of moons ago. Injury enough, no? Well, the owners have actually delivered the ultimate insult, at least according to some Browardites -- they've crossed the county line. Yup, that's right: The Little Italian Tavern is now comfortably installed in a more contemporary home in a shopping plaza in North Miami Beach (3439 NE 163rd St., North Miami Beach, 305-945-5646). Talk about habitat for humanity. Or is it domicile for diners?

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick