Goyo El Pollo Fills Alligator Alley Space

This quiet restaurant in the old Alligator Alley space is actually the second location of this Hollywood eatery (now reopened), popular for rotisserie chicken and comida Peruana. The space draws in Latin families who eat a wide range of Peruvian specialties, like fresh-made ceviche and papas à la huancaina, a native dish made with aji amarillo and soft white cheese. The menu is modest and skews toward light fare like fish sandwiches and grilled chicken breast. More rustic options like aji de gallina (stewed chicken) and lomo saltado (sautéed beef with onions and peppers) compete with fragrant rotisserie chicken spiced with cloves and cumin (which is cooked juicy with such a golden-crisp skin, it would smash anything whipped up at Boston Market). The space, once an eclectic blues and jazz dive, has received a little makeover as well. The long bar on one side has been shortened to enclose part of the kitchen, with shiny new flat-screen TVs tuned to sports. Weekend happy hour and daily lunch specials make it an affordable place to dine.
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John Linn