We started with a cheese plate culled from the restaurant's larger tapas sharing platter,
a spread of Manchego and semi-firm, wine-soaked goat cheese; red hot
cherry tomatoes halved and coated with a sriracha-based hot sauce;
garlic marinated olives and half-dollar-sized rounds of crispy bread on
which to assemble. Pretty standard "cheese and" plate, but the zingy
tomatoes offered a nice, piquant counterpoint to the creamy cheese. A
trio of croquetas were the size of a fat thumb, coated with a crackly
layer of panko and filled with a slick and buttery mash of potatoes.
Some of the pieces had more flavor than others: mine was teeming with
tiny bits of bacon and what tasted like sage, while my companions'
croquetas were nearly just potato.
A blue-corn-shelled fried
fish taco housed a wedge of flaky, battered snapper, moistened with a
dollop of crema and a rustic salsa of onion and mango. Good stuff, all
told, though I found the blue corn shells to be a touch on the aged
side. Another plate featured bits of tenderloin "tips" in a deep sauce
tinged with Worchestershire and dotted with kernels of sweet corn, with
a grilled and rolled-up flour tortilla jutting out of the mixture like
a flag. The tortilla was tasty enough, but the tips tasted more like
sirloin than tenderloin, and the stewish sauce lacked the heartiness or
depth to eclipse the starch.
The final plate -- another DIY
crustini spread with marinated portobellos, balsamic cherry tomatoes,
and creamy goat cheese spread -- was just fine, though a bit too similar
a selection to the cheese plate. Something meatier might have been
better in its place. To go with our tapas: a fruity, crisp class of
Vouvray Chenin Blanc, another glass of pinot noir whose name escapes
me, and an interesting cocktail made with tequila, Cointreau, and just
a light spritz of lime juice -- something like a refreshing "margarita
light." Each beverage was potent enough to qualify for solid happy-hour
fare. Final bill: $66 for three hungry, thirsty people. Not bad,
625 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale
Keep New Times Broward-Palm Beach Free... Since we started New Times Broward-Palm Beach, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of South Florida, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering South Florida with no paywalls.