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Homeland Security

Generations ago, émigrés from Warsaw skulked along the sidewalks of New York in search of decent pierogi. That same desperate wanderlust can today be observed among South Florida's Big Apple transplants in their ceaseless quest for pizza on par with pies from their homeland. Well, listen up, all youse seekuz in sneakuz: The margherita pizza pie served at Hollywood's long-running (25 years) Conca d'Oro (1833 Tyler St., Hollywood, 954-927-6704) boasts a crisp crust of medium heft, mildly sweet and unobtrusive tomato sauce, and a properly proportionate pile of melted mozzarella -- just like slices sold at pizza joints that pop up along the D line subway stops in Brooklyn. In other words, poifect.

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Lee Klein

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