down, gingerly removing a flake of the glistening flesh. It was certainly drier, colder, and chewier than any version I'd had before, but -- thankfully -- it tasted nearly the same. Who should eat this? People in the middle of a hurricane who have cleared out their stash of canned food supplies and have nothing left but a tin of eel, a jar of mayo, and a box of gelatin.

• Ethical Eating