Food News

New Times Immortalized at Sushi One

One of the favorite stomping grounds of the New Times' staff is a little lunch-time sushi joint on Broward and Federal known as Sushi One. It's easy to walk the short few blocks to the place and order some takeout sushi, or maybe a bento box filled with teriyaki salmon, rice, salad, seaweed salad, and miso soup for the insane price of five bucks. For a cheap, lunch-centric sushi joint, the quality of the food is pretty good -- in other words, you never have to wonder if the salmon in your JB roll is going to swim around your intestinal tract. Besides, the place is so crazy busy, with lines often stretching from the register down the length of the space to the front door, you never have to worry about it turning over product.

I've been eating at Sushi One regularly since I first started working downtown in 2000. And  not once has it changed its menu or prices in that whole time -- I had gotten used to staring at the aged, discolored photos of unagi don and vegetable udon up on the walls above the three eat-in tables. But about two months ago, those old photos came down, replaced by shiny new laminated ones. Among the many -- rainbow roll, dynamite roll, dancing eel roll, and New Times roll.

Wait, New Times roll?

Yes, New Times roll. Sushi One has decided to immortalize the paper on its walls and in its menu with this decadent concoction. The creation is essentially an inside out tuna roll filled with tempura flakes and scallions, then topped with more tuna, scallions, and spicy mayo. It's a delicious roll, with bits of satisfying, crunchy texture interspersed among the supple slices of tuna, the grassy bite of the scallion reflecting off the gentle heat of spicy mayonnaise. A work of art, no less, and one the common man can enjoy at $7.95.

OK, there's some hyperbole in there, but it is a good roll.

Although it has only officially graced the menu for a few months, the history of the New Times roll goes back to 2006, when then-publisher Adam Simon used to frequent the sushi spot. Adam ordered the custom maki with such regularity, it became an unwritten part of the menu. Now that those menus have finally been changed, Sushi One decided to permanently etch the name within its hallowed halls.

So thank you, Sushi One.

Sushi One

23 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale


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John Linn