Restaurant Reviews

Park Avenue BBQ and Grill in Boynton Beach Has Great Fritters

An order of corn fritters at any one of the eight Park Avenue BBQ and Grill locations costs just $3.49 and nets you six fried balls of dough along with three condiments to decorate them with. This two-to-one condiment-to-food ratio is a recipe for fun, and the way you play with them greatly impacts the outcome. Adding honey from a squeeze bottle recalls both carnival food and something vaguely Asian. The combo of powdered sugar and maple syrup suggests French toast. Cut the maple syrup from that equation and you get something shockingly close to a beignet or zeppola — the dough warm, cakey, and light; the sugar turning sticky as it clings to the pastry's greasy exterior. Park Avenue also serves barbecue, or something like it. The ribs and brisket taste as though they summered in a pressure cooker. At least portions are substantial and cheap, and all-you-can-eat nights abound (fried catfish consists of fillets of crisp-crusted bliss, served by the troughload on Saturdays). The Lake Park-born chain is spreading rapidly; a ninth store will open in Boca next month. But imagine this scenario instead: Park Avenue Corn Fritter Stands, now in your neighborhood. I'd be the first in line.
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John Linn