Quick Bites: Stick-to-Your-Ribs Goodness From the Rolling Stove | Clean Plate Charlie | South Florida | Broward Palm Beach New Times | The Leading Independent News Source in Broward-Palm Beach, Florida

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Quick Bites: Stick-to-Your-Ribs Goodness From the Rolling Stove

Our feature story this week on South Florida's food trucks covered one of the original trucks operating in Broward and Palm Beach, Delray's the Rolling Stove. Fire-engine red with a faux-smoke stack that stands high above the truck's shady awning, the Stove serves hearty, heavy, Midwest-inspired street food of the greasy-good ilk. Its signature steak burger is a perfect example: Owner Troy Thomas (right) compliments the fresh beef blend he nabs daily from K&G Meats (the same beef used at Charm City Burgers) with the addition of ground-up bacon that works its way into the patty's every nook and cranny. Topped with grilled or fried onions and a generous smear of aged Wisconsin cheddar, it's a burger that should come with a complimentary bypass. Oh, it's excellent as well -- one of the finest in two counties, in this eater's opinion. Juicy, full-on flavor, with a supple bun that's wisely toasted on the inside (not outside, so your teeth sink right through).

But the Rolling Stove doesn't stop at burgers. Thomas is a creative chef who changes his menu constantly. His style isn't light, but it certainly plays to the proletariat kid at heart in all of us. Case in point: Juicy, supple chicken tenders he coats with Capt'N Crunch and then fries to a sienna-tinged crisp. Or beignets made with reduced apple cider and coated in cinnamon sugar (only on weekends). Those Franco-fied doughnuts have the sort of yeasty character any good pastry should. 

Follow Thomas on Twitter @therollingstove

Follow Clean Plate Charlie on Twitter: @CleanPlateBPB.

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John Linn

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