Rocco's Tacos and Tequila Bar, Now in Boca, Wins Some, Loses Some

Transplanted from its Clematis Street location and set in the heart of Boca Raton, Rocco's Tacos offers pricey Mex-ish bar food, a club-like atmosphere, and plenty of tequila to help it all down. Back is the tableside guacamole, fresh avocado pulped in a stone molcajete, along with onion, peppers, tomato, and lime. Great stuff, even if the $12 price tag is tailor-fit for Boca. Guzzling shots of Jimador with some of that guac and Rocco's chili-crusted chips with chunky salsa is good fun. The restaurant's entrées, like chilaquiles and enchiladas, are better than what you'll get at most Tex-Mex joints. But it's hard to imagine a worse $4 taco than the restaurant's namesake one. A garlicky sauté of peppers is paired with two fat meatballs rolling around in a gummy flour tortilla. It tastes like some angsty teen at Taco Viva pilfered the buffet tray at Sbarro's. Dry mahi-mahi and chewy steak tacos are equally disappointing.

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