Restaurant Reviews

Sazio, a Delray Beach Italian Joint, One-Ups the Chains

There's a lot to be said for a huge bowl of pasta, a mixture of starch and sauce that seems indomitable in its sheer size. That's just what you'll get at Sazio, a Delray Beach Italian joint that takes the premise of chain eateries like Olive Garden and Carrabba's and one-ups them with quality ingredients and technique. The crescent-shaped bowls here are overflowing with great pasta dishes, like savory rigatoni with broccoli rabe and sausage in a white wine sauce, or pasta caprese, shells cavorting with chunks of fresh mozzarella, cherry tomato, and plenty of basil. For lunch, sandwiches of whole, grilled chicken breast or prosciutto and mozzarella come on crusty ciabatta bread with some serious texture — you'll need a doggy bag for these as well. Service can be spotty, and they have the annoying preference of not bringing you bread unless you ask for it (you should... it's topped with a garlicky sun-dried tomato purée that's excellent). But for huge portions of made-to-order Italian food, Sazio lives up to its name: That's "satiated" in Italian.
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John Linn