Slugging “Chateau South Beach” at The Setai

Asking for tap water can be touchy when eating at a restaurant that typically exceeds one’s budget. But the waiter at The Restaurant at The Setai on South Beach didn’t even toss us a haughty, “cheapskates” glance when a dining mate asked for “normal water” during our Miami Spice lunch (three courses for $22 a person) on Sunday. Instead, the water joked and smiled, “Of course, Chateau South Beach.”

Later, staff told us The Restaurant is returning to its Asian roots and steering from its American-Asian menu. What’s more, they said the restaurant is working on more of an “everyman’s menu.” So while the ultra-wealthy could get an exquisite steak for $100, the rest of us could also get a decent hunk of meat for $10. Staff said they’re also planning a coffee bar.

Though the hotel’s sleek and stylish veneer may feel a tad unwelcoming, the service on Sunday was not, which makes us far more likely to return once Miami Spice ends in September. And, of course, if and when they come through that “every man’s” menu. --Janine Zeitlin

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Frank Houston