Remember how we warned you about Stephen Starr's new steak house, Steak 954, scheduled to open this month at Lauderdale's new W Hotel? Well, here it is the end of the month, and the place is rolling it out right on schedule: You can call and make your reservation for Thursday's debut dinner if you're so inclined. Just to remind you, Starr is the Philly restaurateur who once compared opening a restaurant to firing the first volleys in a war (The big scary enemy he's aiming at? Restaurant critics). At his 200-plus seat restaurant at the W, he's hauling out his biggest-ass weapons of mass destruction: a jellyfish tank (perfect for disposing of restaurant critic carcasses), a stainless steel bar, garden seating, organic cocktails, and... um... tacos. And, er, sliders. (cough) Caesar salad. Onion soup. Roast chicken. Hash browns. Glazed carrots.
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Where does Starr get his ideas, cribbing from his dear old mum's dog-eared index cards? Well, anyway, the chilled asparagus sounds like a real culinary departure from business as usual, right? I was particularly impressed to learn that Starr is offering a $100 Kobe cheese steak, since I'm a Philly girl myself and I sorta get all sniffly and nostalgic when I think about my hometown. And then I started to visualize the kind of douchebag that would pay a C-note for a steak sandwich with foie gras and truffles slathered all over it, and the notion suction-hosed every dewey drop right out of my tear ducts.
Here I was planning to deconstruct Starr's menu -- hoping to get the first shot in while he was still massing his troops. But this menu sort of deconstructs itself, don't it?
Steak 954 at the W Hotel
401 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.