The Devil's in the Eggs | Clean Plate Charlie | South Florida | Broward Palm Beach New Times | The Leading Independent News Source in Broward-Palm Beach, Florida

Restaurant Reviews

The Devil's in the Eggs

One retro foodstuff that seems to be making a comeback is deviled eggs. Typically the sort of fodder you'd find at 1950s-themed cocktail parties, these bite-sized snacks are making their way onto menus all over South Florida.

I get the phenomenon, I do. Deviled eggs -- nostalgic though they may be -- taste great with booze. You don't need silverware to eat one. You just pop it in your mouth and follow that up with a swig from your beer. Or more appropriately, a martini.

First came the deviled eggs at the Office. A wax-paper-lined tray of five

eggs costs $6 at the Delray Beach gastropub. I don't much care for them

because it's obvious they contain relish and/or pickles, making the

eggs overly sweet.

Michelle Bernstein's at the Omphoy also hocked deviled eggs for some

time from its terrace bar. I never tried them, but they appeared

alongside plenty of other tapas-style eats.

This week, I reviewed Rack's Downtown Eatery + Tavern in Mizner Park.

Rack's serves deviled eggs too, and I like its version the best. These

eggs (pictured above) are probably the closest I've tried to the

classic incarnation of the dish. The "deviled" yolk tastes like it

contains little other than mayonnaise and mustard, with a scattering of

chives and dash of paprika on top. The egg isn't cut into halves, like

at the Office. Rather it's a whole egg with the top snipped off and

hollowed out and the filling piped in. This "feels" like you get more

egg for the buck.

Still, an order of five eggs runs $5 at Rack's, making me wonder: Are

deviled eggs so popular on restaurant menus because they're insanely

easy to mark up? I'd gladly order Rack's version to go with a beer, but

at $1 per egg, it seems like a bit of a price gouge.

Tell us what you think in the comments field below.

KEEP NEW TIMES BROWARD-PALM BEACH FREE... Since we started New Times Broward-Palm Beach, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of South Florida, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
John Linn

Latest Stories