Restaurant Reviews

The Food Of A Place

One of the things I like about this gig is observing how a region's food culture reflects the demographics, education, priorities,

and values of the people who call it home. So when I was asked to write this week's review as a companion piece to Lee Klein's reflection on Miami, my response was the result of this question:

What do our dining habits show about South Florida values right now?

While I don't have the experience living in South Florida for long to

see as many shades as I'd like, I do have the writings of my

predecessors for help, as well as plenty of servers, chefs,

restaurateurs, and readers who have offered their own answers to the

question when I've asked over the past couple of weeks.

Who else explores the culture of a place through the lens of how we eat?

Anyone who writes about food, I'd say. Even bloggers illuminate their values and


Though I won't have a growing body of work from my predecessor John

Linn next year as I did while writing this, I'll continue to ask,

explore, and read how food defines places. Here are a few outside pieces I have turned to among many sources for inspiration. These guys are maestros.

Colum McCann's "Dessert"

Robert Sietsema's "He Nan Flavor: Noodle on Down"

Jonathan Gold's "Beefsteak at Vibiana"

Francis Lam's "Getting to Know Him"

New Times on Facebook | Clean Plate Charlie on Facebook | Melissa on Facebook | Clean Plate Charlie on Twitter | Melissa McCart on Twitter | E-mail Melissa |

KEEP NEW TIMES BROWARD-PALM BEACH FREE... Since we started New Times Broward-Palm Beach, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of South Florida, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Food Critic
Contact: Melissa McCart