Fabio Cracco describes his specials the way a swooning grandmother gushes over a new grandchild. His hands make sweeping circular motions as he explains how meaty, salty cubes of speck — an Italian ham made with pork shoulder — and pungent Gorgonzola cheese together create a simple yet rich sauce that perfectly complements al dente penne ($16.80). He lays his hands flat on his chest when describing how a fillet of red snapper ($22) is pan-seared. He then scrunches his face and puckers his lips into a kiss, explaining how bright-tasting lemon and olive oil are drizzled atop the succulent fillet moments before it hits the table. He smiles and nods with delight whenever a special is ordered. Read the full review on La Cucina Veneziana in Fort Lauderdale.