Closer Look: Mancini's Modern Italian on Las Olas

A tall round of tiramisu was set before us, with its sweet mascarpone cream and coffee- and liquor-soaked lady fingers. The plate was accompanied by a fishbowl-sized cappuccino with a mountain of snowy white foam. As we wrapped up our meal, Jack Mancini graduated to drinking a deep bronze liquor from a snifter. With a thick head of pushed-back silver hair, a 5 o'clock shadow, and a warm smile, the restaurateur sat casually on one of the short, black barstools at Mancini's Modern Italian on East Las Olas Boulevard in Fort Lauderdale, his nose in the glass, inhaling deeply.

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