October Pours In

Calling all lederhosen lovers, stein swillers, felt cap flourishers, and cowbell crazies. It’s Oktoberfest time again, you cuckoo clocks, and South Florida’s German restaurants won’t let you forget it. Actually, some of these eateries start early — like in mid-September. At Old Heidelberg Restaurant & Deli (900 State Rd. 84,…

A Savior Out West

Hondurans have mondongo soup, Guatemalans their chicken in pineapple. Belizeans cherish pawpaw bread, Nicaraguans their meat tortitas. But for top-of-the-line Central American comfort food, you can’t help feeling the world’s your ostra when you take a bite of the Salvadoran pupusa. Pupusas are to El Salvador what tortillas are to…

In-Town Salvadoran

La Molienda’s pupusas come in the same three varieties as Atlakat’s (loroco, queso, and reveultas, $2.25 each). But Atlakat’s version — plump, juicy, with a finessed touch of the griddle — bears little comparison to the less generously filled and more seriously grilled pupusas served at this 5-year-old, freestanding building…

Colorful Repast

Finding an edgy restaurant in Fort Lauderdale takes the determination of Stanley tracking Livingston. Creating such an eatery requires a little more: perfect timing, patience, belief in a higher power, and a few hundred thousand dollars. So a tip of the hat to four-month-old Colors Urban Bar, working hard to…

Tambourine’s Too Tired

How long should a new restaurant be open before it can be reviewed fairly? If the Gypsy’s Tambourine is any sort of yardstick, two months is way too soon. Much like Colors, the Tambourine promises uniqueness. To bolster this claim, the restaurant offers live entertainment, jewelry and boutique items for…

Hope Springs on Ely

Don’t expect a sign when you go looking for Hope’s Restaurant. And don’t expect linen and lanky waiters in bow ties either. And if you’re searching for that romantic evening you once found in a booth at Yesterday’s, you’d be better off splitting a bologna sandwich on the number 11…

A Singular Chef Returns

In the late ’80s, Chef Richard Cingolani helped transform Broward County from the dining doldrums into a place that could hold its own with the big boys. The acclaimed New World cuisine of his Café Arugula lit up Lighthouse Point. And, because, of Cingolani’s singular stature, one could argue that…

Eats for Mr. Douglasito

For far more authentic — and far-flung — “nuevo Latino” cooking, try Café con Leche (7721 Lake Worth Rd., Greenacres, 561-439-8899). The place is owned by Roy Burdier, a Dominican whose little slice of good eating next to Publix in the Nassau Square Mall makes the playful sophistication of Cabana…

Cabana Fever

Roy (Wellington, red wine) was looking for a job. Jill (Boynton Beach, iced tea) and Mike (Boynton, Budweiser) were looking for an evening’s escape from the kids. How do I know? Because they were eating and talking large, one and two tables down from me the other night at Cabana…

Manila Thrilla

Stuffed frog, pork organs in broth, monitor lizard, fertilized duck’s eggs — do we need more examples of why Filipino cuisine can so easily terrify unsuspecting diners? Many dishes from the world’s second-largest archipelago make the perfumed delicacies of Thai food or the gutsy surprises of Korean recipes seem as…

Fill ‘Er Up

Want a quick fix of Filipino foods and culture? South Florida offers few better opportunities than Far East Food & Gifts (Shops at Oriole, 4140 N. State Rd. 7, Lauderdale Lakes, 954-486-6373). “In this store, if you break it, you’ll be happy to pay for it,” says a tough-minded sign…

Classic Eats from the Boot

It’s dinnertime and you’re driving along Oakland Park Boulevard east of I-95, lost in a beltway of insurance shops and tattoo parlors and curl-‘n’-spray hair salons. You’re starving. Out of the corner of your eye, you spot a nondescript, one-story building with a sign sporting the colors of the Italian…

A Fired-up Kitchen

Vincent Foti’s 4-month-old Kitchenetta, just south of Oakland Park Boulevard, takes the same Neapolitan-inspired cuisine served at Salerno’s and puts it through a wringer of fabulosity. No elastic waistbands here. High concept reigns in the flat-screen TV on the wall, in the acid orange-and-green colors splashed throughout the restaurant, and…

The Steak Capital

The Capital Grille compares nicely to a smash Broadway road show: polished to the hilt, full of practiced verve and talent, and yet as adventurous as surfing on Lauderdale beach. The brainchild of RARE Hospitality Intl. Inc. in Atlanta, the first Capital Grille opened in Providence, Rhode Island, in July…

Foodstuff

In Broward and Palm Beach counties, there are two Morton’s the Steakhouses (West Palm Beach and Boca Raton), two Ruth’s Chris (Fort Lauderdale and Boca Raton), and two Shula’s Steakhouses (Fort Lauderdale and Palm Beach Gardens). All of these chains, popular throughout the Midwest, South, and East, claim zealous adherents…

Magic and Meat

Some people might call it luck that the 9-month-old Chima Brazilian Steakhouse continues to attract customers to a lonely little shopping plaza down on Las Olas Isles. The site has been a restaurant heartbreaker since long before Il Tartufo took a tumble there two years ago. But the Brazilians would…

Buy Brazilian

³I wanted a place where Brazilians would walk in the door and go ‘Ah!¹, simpjavascript:passCharacter(‘225’)tico owner Ronald Batista says about his almost two-year-old store, Brazilian Point (840 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Oakland Park, 954-630-8840). Batista is not necessarily referring to the skimpy bikinis and monokinis for sale on the racks…

Gone on 60 Spare Ribs

Tom Jenkins’ Bar-B-Q, 1236 S. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale, 954-522-5046. Lunch and dinner 11 a.m. till 8:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. till 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Jack’s Barbecue and Smokehouse, 500 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Wilton Manors, 954-567-9595. Lunch and dinner 11 a.m. till 10 p.m. Monday…

Lotsa Soul, Baby

Jesse’s Place (1395 W. Sunrise Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-523-4774) bills itself as “a fine soul food restaurant.” They got that right. The room is simply arranged, a dozen or so tables for two to the left, a counter for ordering and takeout to the right. The breakfast menu contains eggs,…

The Painted House

Henry Flagler established West Palm Beach to house workers who would build and staff the plutocratic palaces of the “real” Palm Beach. But then the area, which was never particularly well off, took a deep dive into drugs, drifters, prostitutes, McDonald’s, and so on. Nowadays, CityPlace and Clematis Street boast…

East Meets West (Broward)

Chien Chung Peng from Hong Kong opened Chung Hing Oriental Mart (9803 Pines Blvd., Pembroke Pines, 954-438-1060) in North Miami 15 years ago and five years later brought a second store to Pines Boulevard. The diversity of Asian food items displayed is staggering: a fresh-produce area with bok choy, taro,…

High-Steaks Dining

Where are we, in Riyadh?” I asked as we walked, and walked some more, from a distant parking spot to the all-white, multidomed, Saudi-styled Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino. Located on its own little 86-acre oasis (technically a “reservation” — wink, wink) just off State Road 441, the 130,000-square-foot…