Good Ol’ New World

Where on earth has New World cuisine gone? A decade ago, it was the up-and-comer, the regional fusion fare set to kick Southwestern’s spicy, sassy ass. Diners could stuff themselves from Café Marquesa and Louie’s Backyard in Key West to Café Arugula and Darrel & Oliver’s Café Maxx in Pompano…

Out of Place

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from a decade on the culinary circuit, it is that restaurants named for and themed around an entirely fictitious-slash-lovable character, complete with fake bio written on the back of the menu, don’t generally offer much of value to anyone who enjoys a decent meal…

Hollywood Beginning

Are we ready for this? Sure, we’ve all gotten used to the fact that the Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa would shape up the area tourist-wise; the two years of construction and $800 million spent gave us plenty of clues, not to mention time to adjust. But Hollywood and Hallandale…

Swing into Summer

This summer, it’s all about the numbers. And no, I’m not talking about blockbuster movies along the lines of Spider-Man. Rather, I’m all for saving some bucks, Henry’s (16850 Jog Rd., Delray Beach, 561-638-1949) style. For instance, take the summer dinner special. For a prix fixe of $16.95 to $18.95,…

Safe Harbor

What’s the difference between intention and execution? At the six-month-old Harbor Grille, it’s a corkscrew. The 450-seat Harbor Grille, overlooking the water in a pleasant boating community of Dania Beach, is a remake of the former happy-hour staple and local, decades-old landmark Tugboat Annie’s. The eatery now has four bars…

Great Food, Major Attitude

Steve Martorano, it’s fair to say, is not a patient man. If you call him during the day, the chef-owner of Café Martorano in Fort Lauderdale won’t even answer the phone, since he doesn’t take reservations. If by some miracle he does pick up, he’ll probably be curt, limiting your…

Opa! Opa!

If you have the same philosophy that I do, then one is never enough. And apparently Giorgio Bakatsias and Peter Tsialiamanis, co-owners of Taverna Opa in Hollywood, agree with my personal credo: They’ve opened a second location of Taverna Opa (3051 NE 32nd Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-567-1630). The 8000-square-foot, 350-seat…

A Happy Belly

Restaurant critics are often faced with a conflict of interest: We stumble on these great, unknown, hole-in-the-wall eateries that we’d like to keep for ourselves and the few loyal customers they’ve already won. But such finds are too good for anonymity, so we write sterling reviews about them and publicize…

Blowin’ Smoke

What makes Jack’s Bar-B-Q Smokehouse (500 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-567-9595) different from all the other barbecue joints that have opened recently? The easy answer would be the drive-thru. Open Thursday-Sunday till 2 a.m., the don’t-have-to-leave-the-car-and-risk-stumbling lane is the ideal option for those late-night folks who just can’t…

Steak Your Claim

At first glance, it might appear that aside from a fondness for serving beef, Angelo and Maxie’s Steakhouse in West Palm Beach and Tusk Steakhouse in Fort Lauderdale don’t have much in common. And why should they? After all, Angelo and Maxie’s is owned by Chart House Enterprises, which bought…

Whole Latte Love

Make no mistake: Two Street Coffee Garage (209 SW Second Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-523-7191) ain’t your average mechanic’s hangout. But the brightly colored armchairs in this small, cozy coffeehouse are a good place to park yourself when you’ve had enough of Himmarshee Village nightlife or if you need a charge…

Here Comes the Sunfish

In the restaurant biz, passing your first anniversary means you have a chance of making it. Going ’round for another year? You’re obviously doing something right. Three times for the hat trick? Kudos, congrats, hooray. But if you ask Tony Sindaco, chef-proprietor of Sunfish Grill (2771 E. Atlantic Blvd., Pompano…

Sew Delicious

I’ll never forget the genuinely baffled look on my mother-in-law’s face when the proprietors of a northern Chinese restaurant in North Miami Beach handed her a rather large ceramic Buddha as a souvenir. Here she’d been busy complimenting the folks, as is her métier, but I doubt she was expecting…

Isla Bonita

My husband insists that, good or bad, I always get what I deserve. Which is why, when I got stopped at the metal detector before entering the courthouse for jury duty, he found it hysterical. Apparently, the security guards thought I had a pocketknife stashed in my purse, and I…

It’s Key Lime Time

As we say down here in the subtropics, “The lime doesn’t fall far from the tree.” At least, it doesn’t if we’re talking about Key limes and the Key Lime Tree (95231 Overseas Hwy., Key Largo, 305-853-0378, and 105690 Overseas Hwy., Key Largo, 305-453-1717). These kitschy little shops down in…

Close to Home

I suppose I should have expected the question sooner or later. This was the third time I’d taken out a certain couple for dinner and the third time we found ourselves to be the only party in a restaurant I was about to review. “Is it us?” they wanted to…

Palms and Politics

Talk about getting the support of your hometown. Las Palmas (1318 N. Ocean Dr., Hollywood, 954-929-0550), the latest restaurant to join the party that has begun to spread along the formerly Taverna Opa-dominated Intracoastal coastline like ouzo on fire, opened with a number of political ribbon-cutters on hand, including Hollywood…

Filet o’ Fun

“Jumbo shrimp” is a favorite oxymoron. I’ve got another doozy: “New classics.” You know, things like steak au poivre, a New York strip sirloin steak topped with a five-peppercorn cognac cream sauce; filet Oskar, a tenderloin topped with jumbo lump crabmeat, fresh asparagus, and béarnaise sauce; sliced sirloin served with…

French Mistake

When you’re seated at the five-month-old French restaurant Le Rescatore, you’re handed a menu, a wine list, and a review from the Boca Point Viewpoint, a community newspaper, lovingly encased in plastic. Presumably, you’re supposed to read it and be impressed by its favorable content. But most likely, before you…

The Magic Touch

In the more remote corners of Peru, restaurateurs are going to great lengths to win regular customers: They’re requiring the female cooks to practice encantes — culinary spell-castings. These bewitchings aren’t the white-witch, nose-wrinkling sort Samantha Stevens made famous, either. In fact, they’re sort of stomach-turning, not to mention appallingly…

Soul 2 Soul

Soul Food 2Go (5102 S. State Rd. 7, Hollywood, 954-587-1616) has the right idea: Find a niche and fill it. This take-out joint, which does have a half-dozen picnic tables for those of us who just can’t seem to wait, is already popular with locals, who would probably agree that…

Bad Kitty!

Take note: The Original Fat Cat’s Bar & Grill is actually a copycat. Of course, mimicry is the highest form of flattery, and that’s what Gen-X proprietors Scott Kurland (30 years old) and Dan Kurland (26 years old) intended — an homage to a popular sandwich shop near Rutgers University…