This Fort Lauderdale storefront is just one of seven chain restaurants courtesy of Darden Inc. (of Olive Garden fame). And you can bet your Prada handbag that this test concept, "seasonally inspired healthier dining," has been thoroughly researched, tested, evaluated, and strategized. Low-cal flame-grilled meats, 60 wines by the glass, whole grains, fresh veggies, and tiny little desserts that amount to no more than a spoonful are designed to keep the boomer's belly from spreading unnecessarily. Seasons 52 serves no dish with more than 475 calories, but the result is still pretty tasty. And the menu changes weekly, keeping things interesting and reflecting the changing availability of seasonal meat and produce. As for the setting: dark and voluptuous, in a corporate sort of way.