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Sugar Reef

Anybody who dropped in to Sugar Reef years ago could go back today and suffer no future shock: Nothing seems to change - the open-air restaurant on the Hollywood Broadwalk still follows a rhythm as soothing and predictable as the sea its ocean-colored rooms open out on. Paper-covered tables offer jars of crayons for doodling, and a French-Caribbean menu features dishes beloved by the Reef's many return customers: Jamaican pork with authentic French-style gratinéed potatoes, a tropical fish stew redolent of coconut milk and green curry, and roasted duck topped with mango salsa. An eclectic wine list offers lots of vin by the half bottle. The staff patters in polyglot tongues - Spanish, French, Russian, and if you show up twice, you'll find yourself inducted into a coterie of beloved regulars.

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