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Order Up: Callaro's Prime Steak and Seafood

I expected not to like Callaro's Prime, a very old-fashioned steak house in Manalapan and subject of this week's Dish review. But my friend and New Times' theater critic Brandon K. Thorp convinced me the 8-year-old gin joint can cook the hell out of a steak. We dined there a couple of weeks ago before an opening at the Florida Stage next door, and I have to admit I was won over by the wet-aged, USDA prime, 24-ounce porterhouse I ordered. (The play we saw? Not so much.) The full review drops tomorrow. Until then, here's an excerpt to sate your appetite:

At nearly two inches thick, my porterhouse came hoisted on a super-heated metal platter, hissing and popping in protest as if the cow was, in some way, still fighting back. Indeed it was an angry piece of meat: It had seared to the tray in places, forming a brilliant black char, and spat juices across the tablecloth for a good five minutes after being set down. I cut off a hunk from the tender filet side and alternated that with bites from the strip and bits of baked potato oozing with whipped butter and sour cream.
Callaro's Prime
264 S. Ocean Blvd., Manalapan

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John Linn

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