Todd Roller

Dyan's Country Kitchen

This western Broward County outpost combines the best elements of the family diner with great Jewish deli fare. The line can stretch down the block at times, but once you're inside, the service is so swift that there should be a warning like on amusement park rides: Keep legs and arms inside the booth at all times. Chicken-fried steak and eggs is a coronary on a plate ($7.95), served with a doughy bagel, crisp hash browns, and enough sausage gravy to stop a moving bus. Smoked nova, lox, and whitefish platters are all made in house, and so are huge deli sandwiches filled with corned beef and pastrami. Coffee is refilled so quickly that by the time you're finished, you'll be working a three-day buzz.

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