Escopazzo

Since opening on Washington Avenue in 1993, the restaurant's calling card has been creative Northern Italian cuisine. That hasn't changed, but nowadays, the restaurants' fruits, vegetables, and dairy products are organic, beef is grass-fed and hormone-antibiotic free, and a few raw food selections have been added to the menu. Healthier, yes, but those seeking classic Italian fare will still find comfort in a starter of grilled, goat-cheese-stuffed eggplant rolls atop a gentle sauté of baby calamari, sweet cherry tomatoes, and mint. Or in a hearty main course of rosemary tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce. Escopazzo's kitchen's at mixing and matching big flavors is evident in a signature starter of silky asparagus flan floated in a creamy fondue of fontiana and smoked provola cheeses, capped with crispy shiitake mushrooms and misted with a whiff of white truffle oil. Escopazzo is expensive. The trio of meat entrées, for instance, cost $45 to $58. There is no questioning the quality: Barbera wine-braised beef short rib, pan-seared veal chop, and espresso-dusted, Kurobuta pork tenderloin are naturally raised. Tiramisu might just be South Beach's best, meltingly tender and lifted by assertive coffee undertones.