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Fin & Claw

Hardly anybody beyond Willie and Donna Schlager seems to want to run a cozy little seafood café anymore, the kind of place where you order blackened dolphin or broiled yellowtail; where oysters are sautéed to order for a cream-rich stew and waitresses stagger under the weight of bristling platters of Alaskan King crab legs; where your only fish-related fear is that you probably don't have the intestinal fortitude to put away a whole bucket of steamed clams and the Baltimore crab cake and the flounder Ponchartrain. Fin & Claw II is such a place, the outpost of a dwindling tribe that once flourished in Broward and Palm Beach, now a band on the run. Still, the pace here is unhurried, the catch fresh and well-prepared, and the entrées a bargain when you factor in the price of soup, salad, potatoes, and creamed spinach that comes along for free.