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Fratelli Lyon

Natalia Molina
Fratelli Lyon serves fare that is really, honestly, literally just like the kind you find in Italy. Heck, many of the products here come from the boot, including olive oil, salumi, Italian DOP cheeses, heirloom legumes, and wines from boutique vintners. And what isn't shipped from overseas is equally virtuous, such as organically grown produce, grass-fed beef, and airy loaves of home-baked ciabatta bread. Even the water is flush with integrity; an in-house filtration system produces still and sparkling waters served in reusable one-liter bottles. Try cold antipasti, salads, and some two dozen salumi and formaggi than can be divvied up in different ways: an individual selection (most under $10), a quintet of vegetable or fish antipasti ($25), a trio of either salumi or formaggi ($16), or an esplosione di antipasti. Pastas are near-perfect. Main courses stand out in terms of not only great flavor but also value. Moist, meaty slices of calf's liver come capped with softly sautéed onions and sides of steamed Swiss chard and halved fingerling potatoes - for $18. Add sleek industrial décor, solid service, and a great list of wines and you'll understand why Fratelli Lyon has folks lining up to get in.

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