Indomania

Indomania, a Dutch-Indonesian restaurant, is owned and operated by Dutch couple Pieter and Ineke Both. He welcomes guests to the stylish and streamlined establishment, pours drinks at the compact bar, and helps out with the front of the house; she works in the kitchen with an Indonesian chef. Daughter Isabelle waits on the dozen or so tables, many lined against charcoal banquette seating that occupies the left side of the space. Rijsttafel is the house specialty, but rather than being served as numerous dishes of food, as is tradition, the components -- anchored by a mound of steamy rice -- come crammed onto a single plate: ayam opor (chicken braised with coconut milk); grilled, skewered chicken sateh (satay); crisped green beans, pickled cucumbers, a hard-boiled egg splashed in curry sauce; and, best of the lot, daging semur, softly braised chunks of beef in dark, sweet kecap manis sauce. Best main course is a meltingly tender duck breast grilled, steamed in banana leaves, and imbued with a wealth of Balinese herbs and spices. For dessert, be sure to try the buttery lemon pie, which comes with mango sorbet on the side.