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Japango

Japango owner Kevin Lee makes it look so easy - but here, any bite is a revelation of flavors you've probably never tasted all in one place before. You'll never again eat plain old tataki without yearning for Lee's version; it's like discovering a higher calling. Shallot-crusted tuna scatters crunchy bits of fried shallot over thin rectangles of bright-pink tuna with green and red tobiko and paddlefish caviar. Fancy mango seafood salad tosses chunks of shrimp, crab, octopus, and lightly cooked white fish in spicy chili cream with sweet shocks of tart mango. And "duck two ways" pairs grilled breasts with a crisp fried egg roll stuffed with shredded duck. Service is charming and exacting despite the crowds.

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