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Old Florida Seafood House

You have to see OFSH at least once for the kitschy stuffed sharks in the bar, the downright ugly black ceiling tiles, the terrible '60s-rental-unit carpeting worn through by walkers and wheelchairs, the middle-aged, sharp-tongued waitresses -- and if this sounds ghastly, it isn't. Somehow it all comes together, like the extended families bickering over who's gonna order the shrimp Florentine or the fried scallops or the sautéed frog legs, who gets the creamed spinach and the gratin potatoes. To be frank, Old Florida's muffins come from a mix, the vegetables are likely to have seen better days, and the "twice baked" potatoes may have sat in the refrigerator for some while. And the waitress would rather die than introduce herself -- she may even visibly tap her foot while you dither over your choice of soup or salad. But one thing you can really count on is a big, fat, fresh, juicy piece of fish.

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