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Sage Bistro and Oyster Bar

Ian Witlen
You really have to hand it to chef Laurent Tasic. His Sage Bistro and Oyster bar juggles two completely different concepts and nails them both: a high-end raw bar, with its $52 shellfish tower and a $28 "trio" of jumbo pink Gulf shrimp, oysters, and crab meat on the one hand; and on the other, gourmet French comfort food for the budget-conscious, with meals ranging from $10 to $24. A crepe du jour wraps the lightest of pancakes around sirloin tips, carmelized onions, and rich stewed mushrooms; steak Maurice tops a ten-ounce rib eye with asparagus, mushrooms, and a slice of slightly warm Brie. Many of the dishes at the new Sage are shared with the original Lauderdale restaurant, but new contributions include short ribs Parisienne, pork-chop paillarde, and tuna Provençale. It's all delicious in an elemental way. The physical space of the restaurant is gorgeous, the martinis are strong, and the wine list is a knockout: a recipe to get us through hard times.