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Almost lost in the hype about all the newbies and newbies-to-be heading for Atlantic Avenue and environs in Delray -- Linda Bean! Mark Militello! Allen Susser! -- is cute little Atlantique Café.

It's the second local eatery for Francis Touboul, who also owns La Cigale a few blocks away, though unlike its tonier big brother, the café is a breakfast-and-lunch-only joint, serving simple, hearty, inexpensive fare that's more

old-fashioned American than contemporary Mediterranean.

What that means in your mouth is breakfast served all day -- the usual

eggy suspects, plus pancakes, cereal, pastries, et al. -- along with a

variety of lunchtime sammies and salads, ranging from Reubens and

burgers to caesars and niçoise. You've got to work to spend more than

ten bucks on any of them. There's also a decent selection of wine and

beer and a tiny bar area that pours a full range of cocktails.

Truthfully, to call the place a "joint" isn't quite accurate. It's a

clean, sunny, modern space with gold and rust-colored walls, hardwood

floor, lots of sturdy tables scattered around a large room and a

handful of tables outside, and a long to-go counter up front. Not a lot

of hype potential, perhaps, but an affordable and accessible meal in

pleasant, comfortable surroundings is nothing to sneeze at.