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It's a storefront room with a couple of tables and chairs, a swivel rack of Portuguese CDs, one large wooden crate of whole dried codfish, and shelves sparsely filled with a few edible imports from Portugal -- mostly wines (including ports, of course) and olive oils. Yet since owners Tony and Tina opened their namesake Pinho's Bakery & Deli (4363 N. Andrews Ave., Oakland Park, 954-630-9199) last February, locals and Portuguese émigrés from all over South Florida have flocked here to partake of sweet, warm breads and rolls right out of the oven, semolina bread (pão meallada), little hors d'oeuvre­size cups of custard called pasteles de nata, and an array of freshly baked goodies that are hard to find in South Florida. Pinho's also offers superior versions of things you can get elsewhere, like Danishes, turnovers, homemade donuts (watch your back, Krispy Kreme), and Boar's Head cold cuts on sandwiches prepared with loaves of that sweet bakery bread. Presented with such a selection of high-quality fare at reasonable prices, you'll be moved to say, "Obrigado!" ("Thanks!")
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Lee Klein

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