48. Wurst, Spaetzle, and Potato Pancakes From Checkers Old-Munchen | Clean Plate Charlie | South Florida | Broward Palm Beach New Times | The Leading Independent News Source in Broward-Palm Beach, Florida

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48. Wurst, Spaetzle, and Potato Pancakes From Checkers Old-Munchen

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48. Wurst, Spaetzle, and Potato Pancakes from Checkers Old-Munchen

"This is the most valuable thing in our restaurant," said Matt More. He was holding a mill of sorts, a colander with a crank. "You add eggs to flour, like a pancake mix of sorts. You add salt." He was telling me how he makes spaetzle, the noodles you see above.

It's not easy prepping for dinner service here. After a March fire closed his original location in Pompano Beach, More moved into his brother's place at Diner-by-the-Sea as he navigates the rebuilding. 

Bill Sand's breakfast and lunch joint closes at 2. Prep for Old-Munchen starts then, with dinner service starting at 5. "We've only got four burners here," he says. "At my other place, we had eight." It's a tighter fit in the dining room too: The number of seats is cut from 60 to 30.

Still, they're making a go of it. 

"It took me two days, but I finally found the place," said a regular from his Pompano restaurant who showed up solo. More had just given him turn-by-turn directions on the phone. As his restaurant undergoes repair, regulars such as this one head south to show support. 

The beers are a lure. More carries only German lagers, pilsners, and wheat beers, such as Hacker-Pschorr and Bitburger brands. He was sure to rescue the glassware from the other place, including the boot, the giant glass that requires the drinker to turn it halfway through so as not to wear beer down his shirt.

I couldn't decide which wurst to order, so I ordered two kinds: brats and knockwurst, with sides of potato pancakes and this housemade spaetzle. This giant dish is less than $10. Come to think of it, so is the whole menu. That includes a two-pound pork shank. The menu is discounted for as long as the pop-up holds residence here. 

When will More's original location reopen? "I'm waiting for the city permits," he says. Once they're approved, he's guessing a month. Regardless, it'll be a while. Visit this location while you can.

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Food Critic
Contact: Melissa McCart

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