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One-Minute Review: Hong Kong City BBQ

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Reopened under the aegis of a new family and staff last year after the previous owner, Ray Ng, was shot during a robbery, this 18-year-old Hong Kong-style restaurant in a Tamarac strip mall remains essentially unchanged, much to the relief of local foodies addicted to their pan-fried noodles. The authentic flavors of Chinatown emanate from Hong Kong City's dishes; and whole ducks, pork, and chicken, served barbecued, still hang on view near the front door, the only decoration apart from a couple of fish tanks housing a few sleepy lobsters. Families congregate for rich casseroles like one made with slabs of pork and yucca ($11.95); scallops with black pepper sauce; salt and pepper shrimp; Cantonese shrimp and wonton soup; and a good selection of vegetarian dishes such as braised tofu and garlic string beans. We loved a plate of oversized, pork-stuffed pot stickers ($6.95) with soy-vinegar dipping sauce, seared golden, and the warm sweet-and-pungent flavors of a combination plate of barbecued duck and spare ribs ($9.95). Our main complaint was that the quality of the meat in all our dishes was mediocre (cheap cuts that were heavy on the gristle). Service is warm and attentive in this simple, comfortable room; but keep your eyes open -- there's a rough bar next door, and the neighborhood can be dicey at night. Dim sum is served daily.

Hong Kong City BBQ

5301 N. State Rd. 7, Tamarac.

954-777-3832, or hqcitybbq.com.

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