Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

Don't let the name fool you. The tiny, counter-service eatery Empanada Only (119 N. 20th Ave., Hollywood) also sells individual-size gourmet pizzas, fudge-y brownies, cookies, cappuccinos, and Italian ices. But it's those oven-fresh, stuffed turnovers that'll grab your attention, particularly the ones bursting with chicken cacciatora; sausage with peppers and onions; red beans and rice; or spinach with four cheeses (feta figuring prominently). For empanada-savvy diners, the beef-saute version features onion, garlic, and raisins; for the less-well-versed, check out the potato knishes (the Eastern European empanada) or the rice balls stuffed with ground beef, tomato sauce, peas, and mozzarella cheese (the Italian empanada). Just make sure to finish your snack with a guava empanada, oozing guava marmalade and cream cheese. Call 954-401-1800 for hours and advance orders.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick