Restaurant Reviews

India House's Menu Is a Train Ticket Through India

Although it has moved from its Oakland Park location to this West Broward spot inside a Quality Inn, India House continues to turn out stellar food. Its menu is a train ticket through India, stopping in Portuguese-influenced Goa with Goan fish and vinegary vindaloos, weaving through Northern Punjab with its hot iron "tawa" dishes, even trucking to the south for dosai and Keralese stir-fries. The sheer number of selections can be daunting, but a simple start is best: Perfectly seasoned and fried vegetable pakora ($3.95) are dynamite with the array of homemade chutneys (particularly the anise-studded tamarind variety). So are the wafer-thin lentil papad dropped at each table, and damn, they pair well with a crisp Taj Mahal lager. The quirky hotel setting is strange at first, a little dated with plastic potted plants and banquet-style seating. But it's easy to forget about that in the busy restaurant while chowing down on spicy pieces of karhai-cooked chicken or sizzling tandoor.
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John Linn