4

Try Some Tongue at Tropical Taco

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"This taco shop claims to be the best taco in town," said a coworker when she gave me the heads up and Facebook link. It was lunch time, so I headed to a bleak stretch of State Road 84 to find it. Inevitably I got lost. So you won't, look for the American Legion on the left if you're heading toward 95. The truck is anchored next door.

The deal:  My company was a trio of Mexican guys who were nice enough to grab me an extra chair, some napkins, and super hot sauces at the table in front of the truck.

The mobile taqueria that's open seven days a week is dirt cheap and offers some hits and misses.

The hits: The $2.25 lengua taco is the stuff of dreams,

especially with a douse of hot sauce. As the photo shows, there's not much to it: marinated beef, onions, cilantro, lime.  Carnitas are a close

second, though I miss the crispy bits fried in lard. Horchada is fun,

the summer-sweet delivery of winter baking spices like cinnamon and

nutmeg.

The misses: A coworker called the burrito a lead balloon when I brought a vegetarian back to the

office. The Low Rider is pinto beans, cheese, and salsa for less than

$4. It's fuel.

The walking taco in a Frito bag is like the Wednesday special in a

school cafeteria: Fritos mix with beef, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes,

cilantro, and shredded cheese. This delivery gets a lot of play lately,

but it's more midwest meets Ortega, minus the hard shell.

Should you go? It's pretty solid street food, albeit on an exceptionally

nonscenic street. If you're just in it for the meal, then, yes.

The details: Tropical Taco

1620 State Road 84

954-401-4227


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