Barbecue is the oldest, most universal cooking style in the world. After all, anyone can do it; all you need is fire, meat, and sauce. Doing it well, on the other hand, isn't easy. Shue Mei Oriental BBQ (6529 N. Andrews Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-229-9988) does it exceptionally well. House specialties include a full rack of barbecued spare ribs and whole roast Long Island duck. (Both are served with steamed rice and vegetables.) But no matter how succulent the ribs, it's pretty hard to ignore the Dijon shrimp, prawns coated in a tangy mustard sauce. As for dessert, well, I'd follow a meal with the sweetest dish on the menu: bite-size honey garlic ribs. Bite-size, by the way, is a good way to describe the place; catering mostly to take-out customers, the tiny shop has only a couple seats at the counter.

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