Restaurant Reviews

Foodstuff

Forget springtime in Paris. How 'bout summer in Germany? OK, not literally. But you can pretend to be touring the Continent at Old Heidelberg (914 State Rd. 84, Fort Lauderdale, 954-463-3880), a cozy, welcoming little deli carrying German books, magazines, newspapers, and music. Of course the cultural arts pale in comparison to the tender pink pork schnitzels, which sell for less than three bucks a pound, and the authentically musky Warsteiner beer, about a sawbuck for a six-pack. Old Heidelberg also carries fresh white asparagus, a treat in any country, and young eels, a treat in some countries. If you go, make sure it's on a Saturday, when the sausages get stuffed and the air reeks of home cooking.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick