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Manny's Empanadas Are La Bomba

What's amazing about empanadas is how versatile they are. Last week, I grabbed some of the Spanish pastries from Colombian restaurant Pal Rancho. Those were filled with shredded beef and potatoes, with a supremely crunchy corn shell that was fried. Another version I had yesterday from Argentine/Peruvian bakery, Manny's (10281 W. Sample Road, Coral Springs) were completely different.

Instead of having a corn-meal crust, these empanadas were made with the kind of dough you'd use to bake a

pie. The crust was sweet and buttery and dense, with a dusting of flour

on the bottom and a glossy egg-wash glaze on top. They come in four

varieties: spinach and cheese, spicy chicken, beef, and just cheese. I

grabbed some spinach and chicken empanadas to go and brought them home

to warm up. At $1.80 a pop, two or three empanadas from Manny's make a

cheap lunch.

The spinach empanadas are great. Inside is creamy,

fresh-tasting spinach that reminds me of a greek spanikopita. But the

chicken empanadas are the bomb. Manny's gives these an Argentine

twist by cubing white-meat chicken and bathing it in guiso, a tomato-heavy sauce flecked with cilantro. There's so much flavor in each bite

that these empanadas don't need any salsa at all to spruce them up. And

the chicken, cut into sizable cubes, is fresh and lean.


is planning to move soon (location yet unknown). Its current space

is bare-bones but packs up with Latin families on weekends, especially

around lunchtime, when it makes Peruvian-style "butifarra" sandwiches

from fresh-baked bread along with big tamales wrapped in banana leaves.

You can get a big sandwich and a drink for under $8.

Manny's Bakery
10281 W. Sample Road, Coral Springs

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John Linn

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