Il Mulino's Linguine Vongole: Simple Dish, Needs Attention

Keep New Times Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of South Florida and help keep the future of New Times free.

"That's a real grease-ball dish," said the hulking guy next to me at the bar at Il Mulino, where Debbie, one of my favorite bartenders, had just poured my second glass of wine. Louie, a doppelgänger of Tony Soprano with the same vernacular, held a stake in Fulton Street Fish Market (downtown and the Bronx) for 60 years. He was here visiting his 94-year-old aunt. "If you're gonna go with that dish, it must be good." Il Mulino is among his stopovers when he's here in South Florida.

I'm not sure I'd call linguine vongole a grease-ball dish, but

it is lowly. And it's one of my favorite pasta dishes to make, since

clams are delicious, the dish is inexpensive, and it's easy. Fill a big pot

with water that you've salted liberally. As you're waiting for it

to come to a rolling boil, clean your clams, then heat a sauté pan with olive oil over

medium heat. Garlic fiends can brown garlic with diced shallots at this

point, but I use a slice to flavor the oil, then remove it after a few

minutes. Add clams and white wine. As the alcohol burns off, add pours of broth (seafood or shellfish if you

can), red pepper flakes if you'd like, and wait for your clams to open. I chop a ton of Italian flat-leaf parsley and grate a whisper

of parm for a lovely simple meal.

Il Mulino's was satiating but not quite right. They were generous with

the clams -- and garlic -- but the pasta was overdone and starchy. As these folks do in their pasta experiment, I wish the chef had given the dish more love.

Follow Clean Plate Charlie on Facebook and on Twitter: @CleanPlateBPB

Keep New Times Broward-Palm Beach Free... Since we started New Times Broward-Palm Beach, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of South Florida, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering South Florida with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in South Florida.


Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in South Florida.